Life in the Fast Lane

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This technique requires the use of glaze. You will need to work in small sections no larger than 2 – 3 feet square to work with latex glazes due to fast drying times. I use only latex paints for simple clean up. Many professionals use oil based paints for extended drying times.

Faux Stainless Steel Panels Close Up

Faux Stainless Steel Panelled Ceiling

Materials:

White Paint
Silver Metallic Paint – preferably Ralph Lauren
Glaze
Glaze Extender – (Optional)
Painting Pen in Dark Silver
High Gloss Varnish that dries clear
Small Roller
Sea Sponge
Upholstery Tacks
Piece of Card Stock Paper
Paint Tray
Painter’s Tape
Hammer
Needle Nose Pliers
Pencil
Yard Stick
Blade Knife

This project was done on a ceiling. It is not for the faint of heart to do on a ceiling; I recommend doing this on a wall which is much easier to work on, namely for your neck’s sake! It’s definitely worth the effort to do on a ceiling if you’re up to the job.

Paint 2 coats of your base color with white paint. Let dry overnight.

Mask off sections with painter’s tape using a pencil and yard stick. Mask the sections off so that your pencil marks are inside the area you’ll be painting to avoid retouching later. The dimensions I used for these panels are 10 inches by 24 inches.

Mix 1 part metallic paint with two parts glaze. If using glaze extender, mix 1 part metallic paint, 2 parts glaze, and 1 part glaze extender. Make enough for at least one coat for your entire project.

Apply the mixture using a small roller and paint tray.

With a feather’s touch, quickly drag a wet sea sponge down the panel in several areas of the wet section you’re working on being careful to not pull too much paint off. Immediately pounce the sea sponge over the entire section with a light touch to blend everything.

Complete your sections and apply a second coat in the same manner.

Remove the tape while paint is still wet. Use a blade knife along the wall edges to score the edge of the tape to ensure a clean removal that will not pull the paint from the panels with it.

Using a yard stick as an edge guide, paint a line along 2 adjoining sides with the paint pen. This will add dimension of a shadow.

Let dry and apply 2 coats of clear varnish. I use varnish for floors which has a tough finish and dries clear. Watch for products that state that they will yellow in time which is undesirable. This will add depth for the illusion of real stainless steel.

Make a template of one end of your panel with hard paper such as card stock. Cut it approximately 1/8 inch smaller than the outside edges so you can see your placement. You won’t need it as large as your panel, only for one end. Pierce a hole in each corner 3/4 inches inside 2 outside corners.

This will be your guide for the upholstery tack placement for a consistent look. Use a pencil or fine felt tip marker to mark where your tacks will be hammered into with the holes in your template.

Using needle nose pliers to hold the pin end of the upholstery tack straight and in place of your mark, hammer the upholstery tacks into place. Adding upholstery tacks adds to the illusion of real stainless steel panels hammered onto walls or ceilings.

Finito!

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