Wacky Swiss Fasnacht Lantern Carnival
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Touted as the largest open-air art exhibition in the world, the bizarre 3-day annual Fasnacht Carnival is one of Switzerland’s most famous events, as Basel’s streets are filled with colorful lanterns, costumes and the sound of drums and piccolos, along with weird and wild ‘Guggen’ music played by brass bands. The haunting enactments of medieval rituals enacted include the dance of death — Totentanz — and the masquerade — Mummenschanz.
The Morgestraich kicks off the carnival — all the lights in the ancient town are turned off including streetlights, with the only light coming from lanterns to illuminate the path of thousands of costumed marchers.
At exactly 4am the church clock chimes, and all grows silent, awaiting the shout: “Morgestraich … vorwärts … marcsh!” at which point Clique bands spring into life, playing marching tunes on their piccolo flutes and basler drums, carrying their enormous painted lanterns — Stäggeladäärne — on long poles. Some Clique members carry smaller lanterns on their heads — called Kopfladäärne.
There are no holds barred when it comes to the Sujet or theme painted on the lanterns. The large Zugslaterne or Stäggeladäärne — parade lanterns — are wheel-mounted or carried by 2 to 4 people. There are even lanterns with pictures of human heads on cow’s bodies.
The area is ruled by the Fasnächtler — participants — who dress up in weird and wonderful costumes and masks, play music, carry around pictorial lanterns depicting satirical themes — known as ‘Sujet’ — and perform and distribute satirical poems — Schnitzelbänggväärs.
All who take part wear head-mounted Kopflaterne or Kopfladäärne — head lanterns — and the freaky masks add to the strange goings-on.
Many restaurants and bars in the ancient town open their doors at 4am and don’t close for the duration of the festival, running 72 hours straight from Monday morning to 4am Thursday morning.
By day a huge procession takes place along with live music, a lantern exhibition and carnival floats.
Tuesday evening is the highlight of the ‘Guggemusig’ — groups which play music on old and dented instruments on the Barfüsser, Clara and Marktplatz. Music, lights and masks typify the city during the 3 days.
The procession ends in the evening on the Münsterplatz in which the works of art take pride of place once again with a lantern exhibition where all are put on display in the town square in front of Basel’s cathedral. After that, the lanterns are extinguished for good.
The Cliques and the Gugge work up to the climax when the clocks strike 4am on the Thursday morning. At this point everything stops dead, as the Fasnächtler take their masks off and collapse in the nearest restaurant.
The lanterns are created by stretching canvas over a frame and illuminated from the inside by gas or battery-powered lamps which will only have a shelf life of 3 days — the length of carnival. They depict the theme or Sujet that the Clique is presenting, which is typically something satirical about events and those who made headlines during the past year.
Painting the lantern is a professional job which can take up to 6 weeks to complete. The cliques never reveal the names of the artists hired to paint the lanterns and keep the Sujet secret up to Morgestraich. To be on a lantern at the carnival even for the wrong reason is an honor.
“It’s all about the light.” says an unnamed artist. “The carrying of fire or light during festival processions goes back to the Middle Ages.”
Lanterns replaced torches in the 19th century, and provide Basel’s Fasnacht with its distinct flavor.
The origins of Fasnacht are somewhat obscure and uncertain, largely due to a massive earthquake in 1356 which destroyed sizeable parts of Basel along with many written records. Historians believe that the festival originated from a row at a jousting tournament between the citizens of Basel and some knights.
The argument is said to have turned volatile, with the locals chasing the knights out of town, killing 4 of them in the process. Retribution was harsh — 12 citizens were beheaded and the Empire of the time (Charles IV) put a ban on the city, which meant it was no longer protected by the Roman Empire.
Basel now celebrates this slightly bizarre part of their history with Fasnacht.
Alternatively, the name ‘Fastnacht’ literally means ‘Fasting Eve’ as it originally referred to the eve of the fasting season. The festival is celebrated on the day before Ash Wednesday, or the last Tuesday before Lent.
Basel Fasnacht 2008
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Sources: Sky News, Swiss Info, Cream Magazine, Reblog and Wikipedia. Photos Sky News
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Those pictures are incredible. I love the steroid’s one, it really makes a statement.
Amazing pics wish we had something as great here in the UK
I’m sure the lanterns would be even more impressive to see them in person, Family Guy
wow, that looks like a wild time! I always find it interesting to learn about different cultural celebrations. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks Jason, I find the various cultural events that people celebrate very intriguing myself